A (thought) Development - Part Three

III. Dhaka is a vibrant pulsating city. The streets are filled with Rickshaws as colorful from the first days of Technicolor movies- saturated and overdone. At night, the only chance to dart around from shop to shop without gaining the attention of dozens of onlookers seeing a foreigner walk down the street, the city changes tone dramatically. Calls for the evenings last prayers from the mosques reverberate off of the buildings. Neon bulbs from the markets become beacons for last minute shopping. One is all of the sudden left with the overwhelming sensation of trying to deal with a day of never ending noises, people insistently asking you “where are you from”, “what is your name”, and dodging traffic.

A (thought) Development - Part Two

II. So too, the challenge of trying to communicate the scale of what Bangladesh is going through seems at times feeble. It is clearly one worth attempting for how can one become educated if they don’t know what is going on in the world around them? Yet, even those who are in the mix of the international development field can find it difficult at times to grasp what they are seeing is real. I suppose this effect is some sort of a fail-safe so that work in a developing country can go on with as little lapses as possible.

A (thought) Development in four parts

Starting with this post and going on for the next three weeks I will be posting a one-paragraph post focusing on one particular aspect of life as a development volunteer. While previous postings have covered this topic before the aim with this series is to frame the context of volunteering within the confines of a snapshot so to speak. Each paragraph could stand alone, but together they build an image of development work that is both complex and at times quite elusive - as nothing about development work in a foreign country is every clear or easy to understand.

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I. It is just as easy, whether in a place like Bangladesh or comfort of home, to forget that that matters of pandemic environmental degradation, food security, or regional instability are ones the affect us all. It is just too hard to comprehend isn’t? Begin to wrap the mind around such interrelationships and one has the feeling of staring at the night sky for too long – the mind wobbles at the infinity of it all and finally has to stop looking for a moment.

On the road to finding out

After holding their first successful election since 2001 Bangladesh saw instances of violence against various political parties reach the newspapers almost immediately. These acts of striking out led to the harassment and deaths of a handful of political constituents across the country. Both heads of the Awami League and BNP have made subsequent press statements admonishing the violence and demanded an end to such behavior. Bangladesh has just one more election stage to go - the local district elections on the 28th of this month.

Being able to observe a country going through such a pivotal and historic change is quite amazing. With the last stage of the election process just around the corner it will be exciting to see how the new government goes about achieving its goal of creating a more peaceful and equitable Bangladesh.

Tang still tastes good

To begin, I did not end up living in my apartment like a hermit during the elections. I did demonstrate caution though and stayed at home during what felt like appropriate times. For example I didn't go out the night before the election. Nor did I walk around to the various polling stations in my part of town - though I wanted to.

The voting over who would have control of the government and Parliament went as well as any election in a free country could go. There were minor uplifts but no bombings or shootings at any of the election events. Back in 2004 these types of events did occur hence the amount of fear and over precaution everybody felt this time around.

In a landslide victory the Awami League, lead by Sheikh Hasina, won the election. Two days after the fact the official outcome announcement was made. While there were some victory parades no major clashes occurred. Peacefully demonstrated democracy never felt so palpable. There are still a few "ifs" and "wills" floating around. Will the fundamentalists try and attack the government once the energy from the election settles down? Will either Sheikh Hasina or Khaleda Zia still be held accountable for the corruption charges they faced prior to the election? No one really knows the definitive answer to any of these questions. For now people are just happy that everything went well. The "ifs" and "wills" will have to wait for another day.

Most of my time during the election revolved around watching CNN cover the election and current situation in Israel, re-discovering that Tang still has a soft spot in my heart and stomach, and building the first step towards a larger photography/writing project I am working on. To see it click here. You can also access the site by clicking on the Photography Portfolio link under the FP Picture option on the right hand toolbar of this page. I will keep the Flickr link going as well. The aim of this new site though is to frame the images I capture in a different context. I hope to develop the ideas I talk about under the Information tab on the new site into a larger project. Another new toolbar addition I added is the option for you to follow this blog. To learn how just follow the directions the pop-up window will give you after clicking on the "Follow This Blog" option on the right hand toolbar. I set this option up in response to the feedback on how hard it was to figure out how to receive updates under the older RSS option.

Enjoy the new additions and site.

-From Dhaka-

A guest in my own home

On December 29th Bangladesh will hold it's first national election since the caretaker government took control of the country in 2006.

The official state of emergency was lifted on the 17th of December. Since then the streets have been filled with marches, bands, and loud speakers attached to rickshaws and CNGs all blasting the positions of the election candidates. The energy here is heightened further still by the large presence of military and Rapid Action Battalion patrols roaming the city ensuring that the entire election process goes smoothly.

It is an exciting time to be living in Dhaka right now. Crowds can gather at a moments notice. Peaceful demonstrations can turn heated. No one is sure how the national elections and then subsequent local elections on January 11th will go. All eyes are zeroed in on the two major political party leaders- Khaleda Zia (BNP) and Sheikh Hasina (Awami League). Dhaka has become eerily quiet at night. During the day and into the early evening the sound of marches and rallies fills the air. I have talked with a lot of Bangladeshi's from both sides of the political spectrum. Each one of them is truly excited that the national elections are going to actually take place. Each one of them has also confessed doubt as to the legitimacy and transparency of whichever party ends up winning.

Given the uncertainly and safety surrounding the election VSO has requested that all their volunteers remain at home for the next three days. I will therefore remain, safe and secure, in my own home while the process of democracy unfolds.

It will be very interesting to see what happens next.

VHS

Rewind.

It is 5:30 in the morning and I am awaken to the first (Fajr) call to prayer. It's getting colder here and I realize, as I hear half a dozen or more azan (calls to prayer) bellowed out by muzazzins all over my neighborhood, I need to buy another blanket to keep me warm. My ears have now woken up just enough to hear an incessant low scratching noise coming from my dresser cabinet. It's been there since I first arrived to my new apartment. I don't know what it is. I don't know where it is within the depths of my cabinet either. But it's there and it's always making the same noise (scratch-scratch, scratch-scratch). I have, on multiple occasions dismantled my dresser to look at what it might be. Quite a funny site I promise you as it typically involves me wearing a headlamp. Only I can't see whatever it is that is making the noise. I've sprayed the inside of the cabinet with all types of over the counter insect repellents - all to no avail. I am sure that all the spraying will in fact lead to me growing a third eyeball. Either way, it's early, I am still very tired, and all I want to do is go back to bed.

Fast forward.

I have now been in Bangladesh for two months. Part of me knows that where I am, what I am experiencing, and seeing is in fact real. Other parts are convinced that the ones that know where I am have in fact gone off the deep end.

Pause.

Those that follow this blog know that I have been fortunate to see parts of Bangladesh that do not reach a tourist bureau employees in-box. For that I am eternally grateful. Most of what I see is so far off radar it would be hard to fully describe other than one coming here and seeing for themselves. Even then you will have your own brain telling you what is real and what is not.

I have been digging more and more into what I am experiencing here through the use of my camera. Out of this activity has come the idea to build a separate site away from my Flickr link. I hope, that through doing so, I can create a different type of opportunity for people to see a country, and greater world, that is both familiar and new to them. More on that later. You can check out some of the ones I am considering using for this project by clicking here.

Stop.

It's Christmas time here in the 'Desh. It will be quite a lot of fun to experience Christmas in my new city. Some how I envision Santa Claus having a difficult time winding his way through the sewer systems as I have never actually seen a chimney here in Dhaka. Perhaps as he is doing so he will be able to return to me my first cell phone.

With that I wish you all a happy holiday!